![]() True macro: Focusing is 1:1 magnification, with a minimum working distance of 12 inches, for lifesize reproduction. With ultra-low dispersion lens elements and more, the lens is designed for professional photography as well as for demanding photo enthusiasts. ![]() A true macro lens with 1:1 magnification when used with a full-frame Canon DSLR, this lens is durably built, and utilizes the latest developments in optical construction for high-quality images, whether you're shooting flowers or faces. The Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM lens is Canon's first tele macro photography lens to offer image stabilization. ![]() Hope this helps answer some questions! View full Review The MP-E also needs to be no further than a few inches away from the subject matter in most cases. If you are trying to decide between the two, keep in mind that the MP-E is designed to shoot subject matter as large as a US Dime (1x) and as small as a grain of rice (5x). I use this lens and the MP-E 65 mm f/2.8 1-5x almost exclusively. Make sure you read the manual and set it appropriately. The images are sharper when the IS is turned on. operly when used vertically on a copy stand. The lens is versatile as well able to stand in as a portrait lens in a pinch. We are talking fractions of a millimeter. Very shallow depth of field even at small apertures (ex. Objects as small as a Quarter (dollar will fill the frame. It can focus on an object less than a foot away. View full Reviewįor those seeking a lens to help them capture images of objects as small as a dime, this is the lens for you! Here are a few bullet points: It's the perfect focal length for portraits too, seriously, whatta lens. Oh, the Macro part! Almost forgot! Obvously the Macro is an awesome feature and I use it for details shots at weddings, and because of that IS, no tripod needed. It keeps all stray light off the lens and makes for amazing contrast. It also comes with an EXCELLENT lens hood (not sure why the Canon site pushes it as an optional accessory), and I use that hood everywhere, even indoors. ![]() llows a certain freedom and is basically a blast to shoot with. I've owned the non IS version which is a great lens, and I do own the 70-200mm/2.8 IS II which obviously can hit this focal length, but the lightweight 10omm with the Hybrid IS a. And for the price, this could be Canon's best value-per-dollar lens. WOW, not only is it amazing for still shots, but for VIDEO! It's like having a gyro or Stead圜am. Tack sharp wide open (amazing for portraits), superb resolving power even on a 5D Mark III, and the Hybrid IS. (You can probably find similar combinations of things that will let you use Zeiss microscope lenses on your camera as well.) Forget about depth of field, though - there isn't any.This 100mm 2.8 IS Macro is just crazy. The 12.5mm lens will let you get close-ups of the eyes of the things that live on the eyes of the insects you're talking about. They're used on a bellows, and you can get adapters that will couple the Minolta MC/MD mount lenses/bellows to a Canon EF-mount camera. They are actually microscope-type lenses, available at 12.5mm and 25mm focal lengths, IIRC. If you want to get really big and don't mind fishing around in the used equipment and odds-and-sods end of the photo market, a really interesting option would be the Minolta micro lenses. The cheap option for this strategy would be to reverse-mount a wide-angle lens on extension tubes or bellows. Canon's answer is a "reverse zoom" (the 1:1-5 65MP-E), which is essentially a zoom lens with the far end of the lens anchored in place (instead of the end at the flange, as with a normal zoom) reducing the focal length of the lens increases the magnification at the film/sensor plane. At sizes of 1:1 or smaller, a longer lens gives you additional working space at little cost, but as the magnification gets bigger, the amount of extra room required behind the lens becomes an extreme penalty. Somewhat counter-intuitively, if you want really huge magnification while keeping the camera assembly to a manageable size, you need to go to a wider lens, not a longer lens. As has been mentioned already, one or more extension tubes will get you closer than the macro lens by itself can.
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